Posted Friday morning, August 14, 2020.
Detail from “Edinburgh Castle and the Grassmarket from Candlemaker Row”, a watercolor by Henry Gibson Duguid. 1850. National Galleries of Scotland.
In 1876, seventeen year old Arthur Conan Doyle began his medical studies at the University of Edinburgh or, to put it another way, he began to picture the world in which Sherlock Holmes would begin his career. In Doyle's imagination, Holmes' London must have looked a lot like the Edinburgh he knew as a student...
Dawn mists rose from the valley until they dwindled to a plume above Edinburgh Castle. Perched on a craggy basalt cliff, the castle rose several stories from the summit,which towered four hundred feet above the base. On the inland side rose a turret from whose crown of lancet windows archers had rain arrows upon besieging armies since the twelfth century.
The castle was so high that its time gun could be heard far in every direction. This civil reminder had been fired at one p.m. every day but one since early 1861, before [Doyle turned two], alerting Leith ship captains and New Town shop owners to set their clocks, while every man on Princes Street reached for a waistcoat pocket to check his watch. The sound carried so far from the castle that its instigator...Scotland’s Astronomer Royal...prepared a concentric map showing the number of seconds it took the gun’s boom to reach each distance, for even more accurate time keeping.
...The castle stood so high that shepherds in Fife could turn from shearing to glimpse it like a mirage on the horizon. Mariners sailing in from the northeast could peer up at its battlements long before they reached the shore. It provided an unparalleled view of the region---northward to the jagged peaks of the Grampians, eastward across a thousand diary rooftops toward the storied height of Arthur’s Seat, southward to the Pentlands…
Group of the 79th beside the Mill Mount Battery, Edinburgh Castle, 1852. Robert Ranald McIan (1803–1856). The Highlanders' Museum, via ArtUK.
The castle cast its royal shadow across a bustling market down in the city. The drum and bugle accompanying the changing of the guard could be heard above the clatter of carriage wheels, the rumble of passing trains. Dense with public houses and shops, bristling with turnpike stairs and crow stepped gables, the Grassmarket had been a public site since the fifteenth century. In [Doyle’s] time it was still renowned for its cattle and horse trading. The venerable White Hart Inn was there, and the Black Bull, with its marble relief columns framing the entrance, and above them the words SPIRIT J. WILKINSON MERCHANT. Next door stood the Carriers Warehouse, where one horse wagons clustered out front, piled with goods covered in tightly stretched tarpaulins against the frequent rain. To proclaim that their wares had traveled from exotic climes, the Tobacco & Snuff Manufactury featured above its sign a bust of a turbaned man, perhaps formerly a figurehead on a ship’s prow. Beneath it, wagons uncoupled from their horses projected handy rails on which loungers could lean to smoke and gossip…
Clustered below and east of the castle, the dark streets of Old Town sprawled in medieval disarray---poorly bracketed upper stories bulging above greasy streets so narrow that a man walking could stretch out his arms and touch a grimy wall on either side. Once Edinbugh’s tall buildings had housed aristocracy, until crowding and plague had driven them to the suburbs. By the 1870s, however, soot-flecked washing fluttered on clothes poles jutting from the windows of once proud houses that bore above their door a scutcheon with a tarnished coat of arms. The view from many windows was a dreary prospect of slate roofs topped with red chimneys, spoutin eye-smarting clouds of smoke---with now and then the rooftop scrabble of a blackened urchin sweeping a chimney. Not surprisingly, the city had held on to its Middle Scots nickname, “Auld Reekie” (Old Smokey). Not only the smoke stank. So did the foul breath of the tanners and glue factories, and the effluvia from chamber pots emptied into street carts or into the streets themselve. At least the winds that buffeted the high elevation helped to dispel the stench…
“John Knox’s House, 1861.” Louise Rayner. (1832-1924) Dudley Mall.
[By the time Doyle started his studies at the university], many hovels and tenements [had been] torn down and replaced with safer and cleaner modern housing. Poverty and crowding still defined the Old Town [but]...
He could stand high on the wind-plagued North Bridge, which joined Old Town to the cleaner streets neo-classical buildings of New Town, and see the monuments to civil progress and mercantile ambition that had helped turn Edinburgh into a world-renowned center of intellectual labor. He was studying medicine in part because the university boasted one of the finest medical departments in the world. In the eighteenth century, the Scottish Enlightenment had flowered in this center of research and publishing---philosopher and mathematician Dugald Stewart, economist Adam Smith, geologist James Hutton, and many others. Walter Scott, [Doyle’s] favorite novelist in his later youth, had been born in College Wynd, by Cowgate, not far from [Doyle’s] own birthplace; had lived in George Square by the university that [Doyle] attended every day, and had died only a generation before [Doyle’s] birth. Ambition and artistry were in the very air of Edinburgh.
---from “Arthur and Sherlock: Conan Doyle and the Creation of Holmes” by Michael Sims.
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